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today we're going to help you save some
cash by fixing up an
old mountain bike now many people will
have one laying around the place whether
that's
stashed up in the loft at the back of
the garage covered in all sorts of junk
in the garden shed or even just laying
around in the garden lent up against the
wall
gathering dust now this is a perfect
opportunity to do something great with
the bike
perhaps you know someone that's in need
of a bike you could fix it up and you
could donate it to them
perhaps you could turn it into a new
town bike a rat bike
or your new daily commuter bikes saving
wear and tear

on your favorite weekend bike
alternatively you could do up
sell it make a bit of cash and turn that
cash into something nice and shiny
for your regular mountain bike now if
you're used to fixing bikes this is a
great refresher
on some of the old tech that your
current bike might not have
alternatively if you're new
to gmbn tech this is the perfect video
to get to know mountain bikes and start
working on them
[Music]
okay so let's have a little look at the
bike i'm gonna be working on today this
is the marin

shoreline trail dates back to 2001 this
one
um i think it was around 800 quid at the
time when you could buy them so bowler
counts
pretty good bike if you take into
inflation what it would be today
uh full suspension four inches of travel
front and rear it's got eight gears on
the back
three on the front um that's about all
you need to know it's in a terrible
state
but this bike actually is well worth
spending time this could be a great bike
for someone it could be a first bike for
someone
it could be a bite for a younger or a
smaller rider it's a really good option
here and well worth spending the time on

but hopefully
we won't need to spend any cash on it
and if at all
a minimal amount now blake used this for
a presenter video where he's been under
quid to buy the thing so he got it for a
bit of a bargain
and um as a result we absolutely trashed
it it's been at the back of the gmbn
lockup which is where we found it
amongst other terrible condition bikes
but i thought this one was a really good
candidate
and reason for that is it's got a bit
history so marine bikes
in the uk i mean they're massive
everybody in the uk they had a real cool

story
so in 1996 they had a cross-country
version of the same frame layout as this
called the mount vision
and a guy called paul lazenby uh if
you're watching this paul hi
i know you watch his channel uh absolute
legend he he became the first elite
racer
to win a major title on a full
suspension bike in a cross-country race
and he won the national championships on
one
everyone else was on hard tales and some
of them on rigid bites because full
suspension just hadn't been proven
in in that realm yet everyone saw it as
a hindrance and a weight penalty not as
a benefit

to going faster so he really sort of
opened that up for everyone and really
put marin out there
on on that sort of uh well put them out
in the limelight i think it's really
cool and this kind of nods back to us i
think it's definitely
worth doing the bike up so let's have a
little closer look at it shall we
right let's have a little closer look at
it right so it is obviously filthy we're
going to need to give it a bit of a
clean
uh rear tyre is flat as anything so i'm
guessing it's got pinch puncher

rear brake blocks they don't need to
touch the rim um always a little bit of
a concern
um we may need to replace the brake
blocks but luckily they're dirt cheap
they're talking like probably four or
five quid for a set of brake blocks like
that
uh that rear derailleur is all over the
place i don't know if you can see that
down there
that has had a hell of a whack at some
point yeah that's not even straight so
we'll bend that back
something that's quite handy about older
bikes so this one's got
eight speeds on the rear and three on
the front the fewer gears the bike has
the easier it is to get them working
again because of the fact

it's not so precise as the really cool
12 11 10 speed stuff we have today
that stuff has to be perfectly aligned
this stuff far less so so a lot easier
to actually fix up
okay so moving on to the front of the
bike here let's have a look at the
handlebars
so oh that's a little a little bit
sticky if you see that it wants to
stick so we will take uh we'll take the
cable out and we'll give that a good bit
of lube
um shifter
a little bit sticky we can make that
work a bit better the other brake lever

yeah all the way to the bar so we'll
need to
sort the cables out on that obviously
give that a safety check up at the front
here as well
front tire didn't look too bad a little
bit perished though
so something with tyres the longer a
bike has been in storage
the more likely is that you're going to
need to replace the tyres but luckily
being 26 inch you can get bargains on
them um i reckon i could pick up some
tyres for less than 20 quid for a pair
so hopefully that's really all we need
to spend perhaps brake pads and perhaps

tires
um but that's it let's give it a bit of
a clean shall we and then we can
actually see for sure
okay so i'm using some proper bike
cleaner on here
you might not have access to that you
might have a simple bucket and a brush
that will do to get by clean although
you really can't beat this stuff and
i've also got the luxury of having a jet
wash so i'm going to get this hammered
out quick
okay so normally at this stage i'd be
telling you to give the bike a bit of a
wipe down because you really want to

clean protect and then lube it
protecting of course means using a
corrosion inhibitor to drive out the
moisture so you don't get any rust
this bike has already got a bit of
surface rust on the chain however given
the fact we're doing a bunch of other
things to the bike
i'm going to take it inside let it drip
dry and have a cup of tea while it dries
off
right okay so the bike as you can see
looking a bit cleaner
now before i get started on it it's
important to have a sort of method
however you're going to work on any bike
i'm going to work front to back

on this one now when i was inspecting
the tyres on it
as i was washing the bike i did notice
that there is a bit of a slash and a
sidewall of the front tyre
i inflated them and they're both still
kind of up so i think it might just be a
slow puncture
so i'm going to take my chances with
that but i am going to swap the tyres
out
now i could order some but i do have
some tyres that won't go with this very
well
up in the loft uh intended for another
bike so i'm going to actually
chuck them on here for argument's sake
for a time being so first port call is
to check out this headset that sounds a
little bit

notchy but it's not too bad i suspect
it's just got barely any grease left
in it or any grease in there is a bit
manky so super quick and easy to do that
and then the front end will nice and
then we're going to get the wheels out
swap those tires over then i'm going to
check out that front brake and make sure
it's nice and safe and it works
like it should do you want to start by
taking the top cap off
or at least loosening it then you're
loosening those stem clamp bolts once
they're loose the top cap is the only
thing that's going to stop the stem
coming off so make sure you hold on to
the fork
release that top cap wiggle that stem

off and let it just dangle carefully
and then hopefully you should be able to
slide the fork out now because i want to
slide that fork out you can need to
disconnect
the front brake you could take the cable
off the brake but actually because these
are old cable brakes
you'll find there's a little slot in the
barrel adjuster here and if i just
slide the cable out the side of the bars
there you'll find that you can actually
disconnect it
at the lever there we go so that is that
cable
away now like this bike that's been
around for well since 2001

i suspect this has never been done on
here and you might even need to tap the
steerer tube just to get it out and free
it
from the system and as you can see it's
pretty gunky in here
so if you're going to remove any parts
on a bike to clean them put them down
ideally on a workbench or a working top
and you want some sort of shop towel or
some kitchen roll something like that so
don't roll anywhere
and you can just use that to clean them
with at the same time again it's always
nice to use some proper cleaning
products
you know i'm lucky enough i've got
everything here at my disposal but you

might not have
so you can use some basically just a bit
of elbow grease
if it's really mucky you can use things
like household cleaners and stuff but
to be honest you want to kind of steer
clear of that stuff if you can
better off just using a bit of elbow
grease get that stuff nice and clean
okay so i've just given the headset
bearings a bit of a clean down the good
thing about these is they're not
cartridge bearings so you're going to
find
bearings similar to these on a lot of
old bikes which means they're really
easy to clean
provided they're not too worn out these
are actually in excellent condition they

just needed all of the sort of crap
flushing out of them
you can see what i've stated the rag
here some of the color of stuff that's
coming from
so these will be great just let the
isopropyl alcohol on that disc brake
cleaner dry
out completely before i think about
putting them back in in the meantime
i'm just going to give the frame cups a
wipe down and put some fresh grease in
then this headset back together
and that's that bit done now something i
probably should have said is when you're
cleaning out these
cups just give them a little feel with
the ends of your fingers no i'm using
gloves because these are really gunky

uh you don't have to if you're old
school and a bit of a mechanic use some
barrier cream on your hands before you
do this
that way just make sure the grease
doesn't soak into your skin and it means
they're gonna be easier to clean
afterwards
yeah look for a nice smooth bearing
surface if you're using traditional
bearings like the ones i am here because
you want them to spin
nice and freely around here if those
bearings have been worn
or the bearing surfaces get pitted
that's when
it's time for a new headset and then
you're going to have to re-reassess

whether it's worth it on that bike
there's no substitute for having a good
quality grease though for your bike
now there's lots of different greases
available to put in different parts of
the bike but a good general purpose
grease
that is carbon safe is a really sensible
thing for you to have
in your own workshop okay pretty
simplistic here just sliding the
steering tube back in place
i'm going to make sure wipe off the
excess grease afterwards and i might
actually use a bit of isopropyl alcohol
or disc brake cleaner
on a rag just to make sure there's no
residue on the frame and on the

the outer cups of the headset there
because that's where dirt and grime will
stick
afterwards uh just a little tip for you
there put it back together before i
clamp the steering tube up with that
stem
i'm just going to adjust the top cut
there until the headset feels like it's
running smoothly but there's no play in
it
you can clamp it up and then you're good
to go
and this is what i've got for um that's
just actually for my wife's bike but not
any longer apparently
uh rapid rob with a little white

sidewall so look pretty awful to be fair
but um
they're cheap hey i think these are
about 16 quid for the pair
and we've got them ages ago i think off
like wiggle or something like that
but uh yeah right so these will do to
get this functioning let's get them on
okay so the fork is back in the bike
i've changed the tyre
on at least the front wheel for now um
time to put the front wheel back in
now before we set the brakes up we just
want to have a look at the front wheel
and in fact actually should have done
this just now
um just have a feel of the axle see how

it feels it feels smooth does it feel
rough this one actually feels
really smooth and it has got massive
rubber seals so it looks like an old
shimano parallax hub
um it's unnamed so i don't know what it
is if that's
if it is a parallax hub they're pretty
much fit and forget forever but
yours might not feel like it if that's
the case you may want to remove the axle
to give it a bit of tlc but this one is
fine so i'm not going to interrupt it
let's just get the wheel back in i want
to make sure that the the spokes are in
good condition and then we can have a
little safety check on the rim

now bearing in mind this bike doesn't
have disc brakes on it so a lot of older
bikes
will not have disc brakes on it and
you're using the rim
basically as your braking surface now
this is something really important
so bearing in mind this is a structural
part of the bike
this is a part of the wheel you're also
wearing it out by braking on it so if
the bike is extremely old
if you run your thumbnail you'll
actually be able to feel if the rim is
pitted if it's heavily pitted then you
might want to consider
if you want to continue using that wheel

this one's just got some minor scoring
on it i think it's absolutely fine
but in extreme cases it's known that the
sidewalls of the rims actually can break
um they can actually break as well as
when you're breaking on them because
they're so old and perished
so just be mindful of the condition of
the sidewalls
okay so i'm just gonna run find the uh
the valve which is here i'm just gonna
give it a little bit of a spoke check
i'm just looking for anything extremely
or extraordinarily loose
or tight um so far

not too bad now if there's anything that
is literally hanging apart loose
and you're not someone that knows about
true wheels
you can still nip that up but don't go
too tight nip it up tight and then maybe
another half a turn and then hopefully
that won't affect things
the secret with trimming wheels is to do
little not to do too much
because as well as being able to pull
the rim over to each side using
tightness on them you'll actually pull
the rim up and down as well so it's
important
if you've got a spoke that's
particularly tight but you need the rim

to move that way
you need to consider tightening on the
other side and loosening that one
to counter that so there's a bit of back
and forth with doing that but if that's
something you're not comfortable with
don't worry about it long the wheels are
loosely round you're fine the whole
point of this is to get the bike
rideable not to make sure it's perfect
so i'm happy with those and i'm going to
reconnect that front brake
and then we're going to do a bit of work
on the brake right so
the brakes pulling quite far to the bars
so and actually it felt a bit stiffer
they didn't feel too bad now

i might put a bit of lube through the
brake lever there just to make sure it
runs
a bit smoother and then i'm going to be
looking at these brake pads
now the front ones i noticed they're not
in the worst condition they're okay but
the rear ones are called glimpse and
emoji they look horrendous so we're
going to change those rear brake pads
i have somewhere in one of these some
old they're not quite the same yeah here
we go
they're a bit smaller so if you look at
them side by side they're a little bit
smaller but they've got the same fitting
so we can make these work that's no
problem at all they're just cheap old

brake pads
if you do need to buy brake pads for
brakes like this
for a complete set you'd be looking
under 10 quid um probably
five quid if you look around now you'll
see they've got conical washers
on the pads that's so you can actually
manipulate the pad back and forth up and
down and at an angle
as a thing called toe in toe in is what
you want to have
on both your front and rear brake pads
whether you have v brakes or cantilever
brakes
same principle and the idea is the front
of the brake pad
is hits the rim varies fractionally

before the rear does
and as the rotation the rim goes around
the brake is pulled onto the rim
this in theory helps them stop squeaking
squeaking brakes comes from brake pads
vibrating if they hit rear first or they
hit flat
as they get pulled they can go and the
oscillation turns into horrendous
squeaking
so nine times out of ten that's what
causes squeaky brakes so get them towed
in note that when i pull the brake lever
here
once the brake pads are aligned you can

see that one of the brake arms is moving
more than the other
and the wheel is central in the fork so
there's no problem with that
now they both have independent springs
and as you can see they've got little
adjuster screws here now these are
different on all the
brakes but essentially they work exactly
the same
on the posh ones you might have allen
keys these ones are just screw heads
they're quite crude but they do the job
absolutely fine now just like adjusting
spokes don't think you've just
constantly gotta
tighten one up to have an effect
sometimes it's better to loosen
the opposite one than it is to tighten
the one that's the culprit

just sit back and think about it first
if it's already extremely tight
then there's a problem you might want to
back it off and then adjust the other
one
okay just a quick side track here i've
put the tire on the back wheel
it's all clean ready to go i've just
noticed that the hub
is a little bit grungy now this isn't
something that you
absolutely have to do the idea is we're
getting a bike out the shed fixing up
good to ride
this is fine to ride there's no plane
does move but i'm a sucker for details
so i'm actually going to whip this out
put a bit of fresh grease in here just

so i know that whatever we do with this
bite it's good to go
now if you want to do that at home you
might need a few specialist tools so
this could slow you down a bit
you'll need to remove the cassette in
order to do that so you need a chain
whip and a cassette tool
if you haven't got one you can't really
get it to set off uh also you might need
some cone spanners so essentially like
normal spanners they're just extremely
thin because you have a lock nut against
the nut that basically adjusts that
bearing so
a little tip for you as well i've got
some of these park tool picks
uh you get they're heavily magnetic on
the end they're super good for
getting out the bearings from the hub

but you can use electrical screwdrivers
for that same purpose it's got like
some gunky stuff in it so i'm just gonna
replace that with some fresh nicely
squeezed grease
and there you go look nice and smooth
and it's nice clean grease in there
they're going to purge a bit more
through because when you put the axle
back through it purges
any remaining old stuff out and even to
the excess stuff
now this hub will be good for a long
time now
sorted i have noticed the rear rim has
got a little bit of a buckle
on there so if i just feel around the

spokes you can normally feel
if there's a couple that are especially
tight or especially loose and that's
normally where the culprit
is now again you don't need to go crazy
on this you just want to make sure it
passes through
smoothly enough you don't really feel
that buckle when you're breaking
for anything else and you're unsure
about it you really need to go to the
bike shop to get them
to true it for you you can check our
video out but it is for
slightly more competent mechanics and
our video is in the description
underneath now let's get those gears
sorted out now as you can see that rear

mech hanger is
well it's pretty bent right so let's get
the meg off
it's a five mil allen key if you need to
do this at home and the best thing for
straightening a mech hanger
is an adjustable spanner unless you
happen to have the correct tools but
you're likely to just need
an adjustable span here now be very
careful with this
some of them are part of the frame and
some of them like this one are
replaceable
options that bolt to the frame either
way they're very easy to snap but i
don't want to do that because i don't
want to spend any more money on this
bike than i absolutely have to

that looks okay to me i'm happy with
that that looks near enough
straight now thankfully bikes with less
gears like this one it's actually
you can have a slightly more bent setup
and get away with it and you can with
the more modern 10 11 and 12 speeds
this has only got eight on the back so
this is actually quite easy
to adjust so i'm going to leave that i'm
not going to chance bending it anymore
i'm going to fit a new cable in here as
well because it's obviously had some
water in the system
so let's get the handlebar grip off uh
it's only a little bit of grip piece
we've got grip shift
let's take the grip shifter off that's a
little bit stiff we'll put some

suspension grease in there
uh just an important note if you have
grip shift by the way and you're gonna
uh put any sort of grease in them make
sure is a grease is friendly on plastics
and rubbers
suspension fork grease is perfect for
this sort of stuff
it won't deteriorate the grip shifts on
the inside a new one in slide it back in
just check that indexing yep that feels
good
now for putting the handlebar grip back
on trust me on this one the best thing
i'll have to do that is hairspray
i would know about hairspray wouldn't i
yep and
that one is the best one extreme i think

it is or something like that it's really
powerful glue
um slide the grip back on and leave it
basically into a set don't be tempted to
see if it's set just
leave it as long as you can leave it and
it will it literally dries like glue
brilliant stuff
okay so that's done cable back through
nip that up
now if you do need to make any
adjustments to your gears just bear in
mind there's only three real things you
need to adjust
the limit screws there they are up and
down one adjusts the in the limit one is
just the outer limit and then of course
the cable tension

now there's a video in the description
underneath to show you all you need to
know about
fine-tuning a rear derailleur in the
description underneath
this one there's also going to be one on
a front derailleur coming so if you need
to make those adjustments there's a
dedicated video for that
as well so that will help you on your
way all right
i call that a job well done that is a oh
battered up bike successfully rescued
for not much money now the tires i did
admittedly have lying around
but you could pick up dirt cheap old
tires like this for about 10 or a piece
that's really
not a lot of money and you could

probably do better than these these ones
a little bit ropey but
they will do perfectly to get the bike
working i've also put on their two inner
cables one break one and one gear one
and again they're dirt cheap they're a
couple of quid each
i always keep these sort of things
around oh i also put some brake pads
on the rear so in total if you were to
spend out on that probably under 25 quid
25 euros something like that
that is not bad for getting a bike like
this rideable again that can make a
great gift for someone
you can even sell it make a few quid you
could definitely make a good profit on
that for the amounts you spent on it
it's taking me an afternoon to do this

including cleaning it so
that's not bad by all accounts i'm
pretty happy with that and um
well we'll see what we can do with it
now if there's anything else on this
bike that you'd like me to go
into in detail we'll use this for a
couple other videos because it's got
some good old stuff on
i'm more than happy to help so you might
notice i did a bit of a rear hub service
on there
if you want to see a detailed video on
that because this is the old soul hub
that's got cup and cone bearings
and of course if you want to service
that free hub body you have to have the
big 12 mil allen key if you want to see
me do that

i'm happy to do that let us know in the
description underneath and also i think
i should do a cheap suspension fork
service video
using something like these we'll take
them apart give them a bit of clean will
make them feel really good
i mean admittedly they still work all
right that's quite amazing for a bike
from 2001
but i bet there's some pond water in the
bottom of those so if you want to see
that one
let us know any old stuff let us know in
those comments
and we're more than happy to make that
stuff we love
entertaining you guys and we love giving
you stuff to help make your bikes better
so uh
thanks for hanging around as always

Today we're going to help you save some cash by fixing up an old bike. Many people have an old bike laying around collecting dust - this is your opportunity to ...

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Comment (0)

  1. Hi Great vid 🙂 So about the brakes, you told that it should be some angle outwards from the wheel so should it be like 2-4mm:s ? or more or less? I always put it on 100 %. SO if I do 100 % brakepads on the wheel will it brake only with the surface of 90 % around because it is braking? Also you said it is noisy with the wheel wobbling or was it somwething else making the brakes noisy? Could it not be the material is more plastic in it nowadays and less rubber?

  2. Excellent video Doddy. That’s good coverage of brake adjustment and it is becoming a lost art with the advent of disk brakes. Clean grease, headset, derailleur adjustment. It’s a subject near to my heart since my 2 current bikes are eBay bikes brought back from disuse and near destruction – a 1999 Gary Fisher Tassajarra and a 2004 Jamis Dakar.

  3. *fervent note taking ensues!
    My daily riders, both of them, are sad and very old bikes.
    All of this info is invaluable for helping me keep them on the road as long as possible!
    Thanks a ton!

  4. feels really weird that there's a whole generation of riders that don't know how to take a cable out of a brake lever! but i suppose there's people who've been riding for years and only used hydraulic discs.

  5. I do this about 20 times a week. The bikes are donated by folks in our community, parts are funded through donations and I do all the work. The bikes are then given free of charge to anyone who needs one. Smiles for miles from the recipients.

  6. I am looking todo a Retro Cannondale super v 500 sl upgrade. I have Rockshox sid rear on it, and recently added a marzocchi bomber fliy light for the Front. Looking to build it into a 1 x 11 shamano system. Has anyone else done a retro super v?

  7. I literally have the same bike. It's coming out of retirement this season. My son has shown interest in getting on the trails. I was able to get a good deal on a used GT Aggressor Expert. I'm going to ride my Marin this season and see if I want to upgrade it a bit or get a new bike. A cheap fork service video would be appreciated. Great video!

  8. That bike is super clean and shiny compared to the rust heap im refurbishing, all but a few of the chain links would not move due to heavy rust and the hand grips, headset and seat, all have mold growing on them.

  9. A way to clean out the rear suspension (or find a compatible replacement) would be incredible. I saw a video of a guy drilling a hole in the side of the suspension above the coil, filling the hole thing with silicon lube, and then plugging the hole with a screw. This is some major bodgery but I am curious to what you think about that.

  10. i am looking to convert my old 26" MTB with 3X7 gear to a hybrid, retaining the rims and gears.. think i need to replace the cantilever brakes, looking at V-brakes…any advise what else to look out for?

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